普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

前一陣子買了一塊很優的放養鴨胸, 老公愛吃鴨, 特別是鴨胸 (magret de canard); 我則因為過去曾嘗過品質不優的鴨胸, 所以對鴨胸特別挑剃。在買這塊鴨胸時, 就已打算搭配一道沙拉, 用簡單的方式來品嘗鴨肉的甜美。

(* 如圖所示, 此塊放養鴨胸是取自於法國西南部專門拿來做鴨肝的鴨隻, 也就是說此鴨胸會比一般等級的鴨胸來的肥。烹煮此種鴨胸的訣竅是將它放入一尚未加熱的鍋中, 以小火慢慢將鴨油融出, 然後再漸漸調高火力來逼油、上色。因此烹調方式以慢火低溫將多餘的鴨油融出, 當鴨胸煎好時, 可以看見鴨皮是較薄的, 可以輕易的帶皮一同享用。還有, 烹調任何肉類料理前, 一定要先將肉類於冰箱內約30分鐘前取出, 讓肉類慢慢回於室溫, 若將一塊冰冷的肉直接丟入一熱鍋中, 它會在烹調過程中流失鮮美的肉汁, 肉質冶容易硬化。)

沙拉的準備:

1.  先將一大把綜合嫩沙拉葉洗淨, 可用一沙拉脫水器將沙拉葉瀝乾水分、放於一旁備用

沙拉醬的部份:

我使用了balsamic vinegar (巴薩米可醋), 因為我認為它和鴨肉蠻相配的。(製做此油醋醬時, 我通常會加入一些切半的櫻桃小蕃茄, 讓小蕃茄於油醋醬中醃約30-40分鐘, 小蕃茄甜甜的汁液與巴薩米可醋的微酸是一完美的組合。你也可以使用無鹽奶油、蔗糖加巴薩米可醋自己作濃縮巴薩米可醋 - balsamic reduction 淋於鴨胸上; 另一種搭配鴨肉的典型沙拉醬 - 將特級橄欖油和柳橙汁、刨碎的橙皮、一小撮鹽之花、蔗糖(視口味稍做調整)混合成乳化, 並在綜合嫩沙拉葉中加入柳橙果肉即可。)

1.  於一碗中倒入你最好的特級橄欖油和巴薩米可醋
2.  將放於室溫的櫻桃小蕃茄切半, 加進油醋醬中, 切口面朝下
3.  一小撮鹽之花調味, 靜放約30-40分鐘讓味道慢慢醞釀

* 當鴨胸在 '休息'時, 可以將此沙拉醬與沙拉葉混合均勻

鴨胸的烹煮:
(重約700克)

1.  將鴨胸多於的肥和帶筋的部位切除, 鴨背(皮)上用刀化數下
2.  鴨皮朝下, 放入一煎鍋中, 先用小火慢慢將鴨油融出, 約10-15分鐘, 這期間可不時將鴨油瀝出

3.  轉中火, 繼續煎8-10分鐘, 你會看到鴨油繼續被逼出, 將一部份的鴨油瀝出, 鍋中剩餘的鴨油會在下一步驟來淋鴨
4.  轉大火, 鴨胸翻面, 使用鍋中的鴨油淋鴨 (保持鴨皮酥脆度), 煎約5-7分鐘, 成中熟狀 (medium rare)

5.  將鴨胸取出, 放於一溫盤, 用鋁箔紙覆蓋 '休息 ' 15分鐘。灑上少許鹽之花調味

6.  將鴨胸切片, 搭配沙拉一同享用

(瀝出的鴨油可以拿來烤馬鈴薯、炒洋蔥、蔬菜和煎雞肝等等。)

English Version:

Free-range duck breast salad

I bought a piece of decent free-range duck breast (Magret de Canard fermier) the other day.  Hubby loves ducks, especially magret de canard, but I only enjoying eating good quality of magret de canard (due to bad experience in the past).  I thought the best way of enjoying this free-range duck breast would be pan-frying it simply and serve with a nice salad.

(* As shown in the picture, this free-range duck breast came from ducks that used for producing foie gras in the south west so it will be fattier than the others.  The technique to handle this kind of duck breast is to cook it in a cold frying pan and then slowly increase the heat.  It will help leaving just a thin layer of fat on the breast when it is cooked.  And always remove the meat from the fridge and allow it to return to room temperature prior to cooking.)

To prepare the salad:

1.  Rinse and dry a generous handful of mixed young salad leaves.  Set aside until ready to use.

For the salad dressing, I chose balsamic vinegar as it works well with the ducks.  (I would also use some cut up cherry tomatoes to marinate with the vinegar mixture as I found the juice of tomatoes work through the acidity of balsamic vinegar.)  *You can also make your own balsamic reduction to accompany with the duck breast.  Another classic vinaigrette to go with this salad would be mixing up some extra virgin olive oil, orange juice, orange zest, a pinch of sea salt and sugar (if necessary) and some orange segments mixed through the salad.

1.  In a bowl, pour in your best quality of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  
2.  Cut up some ripe cherry tomatoes (room temperatured), and place them (cut side down) into the vinegar mixture.
3.  Season with a pinch of fleur de sel.  Let it sit for minimum 30-40 minutes for the flavour to develop.

Mix the salad leaves with the dressing while the duck is resting.

To cook the duck:
(about 700g)

1.  Remove any excess fat and sinew from the breast.  Score the duck skin.
2.  Place the duck breast, skin side down into a cold frying pan over a low heat.  Let it cook for 10-15 minutes, and you can pour the fat out from time to time.  
3.  Turn the heat up to medium and continue cooking for 8-10 minutes.  You will see more fat rendering down.  Pour out some fat and leave some for basting later.
4.  Turn the heat up to high and turn the breast over.  Use the reserved fat to baste the skin side from time to time (this helps the skin to stay crispy).  Cook for 5-7 minutes for a medium rare result.
5.  Place the breast on a warm plate and cover with a foil; allow it to rest for 15 minutes.  Season with some fleur de sel.
6.  Slice with a sharp knife and serve warm with the salad.

(Keep the duck fat for frying potatoes, onions, vegetables, poultry livers and etc.)