普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

對我和老公來說, Crumble 奶酥 (暫譯奶酥) 是我們的精神食糧,特別是在秋季微涼夜晚...又或者是當我找不到其他更好理由時...其實老公最近因為工作因素心情有點低落,所以我想為他做這道甜點,我可以想像當一湯匙的奶酥放進他的嘴裡,他的臉上所揚起的滿足笑容...希望奶酥豁著水果的香甜可以讓他暫時忘掉工作上的不愉快。

其實Crumble 奶酥多半是覆蓋在各式水果和綜和莓果類一起烘烤,又以蘋果最為常見。
我愛蘋果所散發出的香氣,但這香氣卻常在蘋果去皮後一同散去。也因如此,我靈機一動,想到第一次聞到Calvados蘋果白蘭地酒所散發出的濃濃蘋果香,便決定使用它來提高果香味。

Calvados 是個在諾曼第以生產蘋果白蘭地酒聞名的一城市, 此蘋果白蘭地和地名同名。(Apple cider*發酵蘋果汁也是此地的一名產,我會有機會再來分享用apple cider燉雞的做法)
(* 註:  Apple cider 其實是使用純的蘋果汁,也就是完全未經過任和加工處裡的純榨蘋果汁來發酵; 法國Calvados至今也還是有依最傳統加純糖慢速發酵的方式來製做Apple Cider, 發酵的最後過程通常會產生極微小氣泡。秋季也正是大多數種蘋果的產季, 視蘋果類別,各有各的含糖度,也因如此,產品的含酒精量介於8.5%左右。而Calvados則是由Cider2次蒸餾而成,含酒精量約40%。)

我 一直久聞Calvados蘋果白蘭地大名但卻一直沒有嘗過真正由諾曼第來的Calvados蘋果白蘭地。直到最近,剛好有一位朋友提到她會去諾曼第看她的母親,我便請她幫我隨手帶一瓶烹調用等級的Calvados蘋果白蘭地。她回到南法後,竟送給我一瓶陳年(hors d'age) Calvados蘋果白蘭地。我非常感動。這種陳年(hors d'age) Calvados蘋果白蘭地,其實通常是拿來單喝並品嘗蘋果淡淡的香氣,或者當餐後甜點酒,搭配上一球自製香草冰其淋,又或者是更豪華版的自製蘋果冰沙...以上這些簡易的搭配其實都是為了能夠細細品嘗這陳年(hors d'age) Calvados蘋果白蘭地。

其實我還想介紹Normandy 的另一名產,Pommeau,但我好像已經偏離主題.
 

蘋果白蘭地嫩煎蘋果＆綜和莓果奶酥,做法如下:

烤箱用200C預熱

第一步:  處理蘋果
4-5顆               當季蘋果
20g                 無鹽奶油
1大匙(約14g     蔗糖(中細顆度)
20-30ml          Calvados蘋果白蘭地
(若沒有此白蘭地, 也可用一般白蘭地或法國Cointreau暫譯香橙酒,因它有著濃濃的香橙味)

先將蘋果去皮、切成8瓣、去籽,然後在對切成塊。使用中火,加入奶油嫩煎蘋果塊3-4分鐘,轉大火、倒入Calvados蘋果白蘭地,煮約5-7分鐘(目的是為了將酒精揮發)後轉成中火,加入蔗糖繼續嫩煮約5分鐘。熄火並將蘋果塊分裝於4個中型烤皿或1大烤皿

(註: 我使用法國栽培的Royal Gala蘋果,因為現值產季加上它們是新鮮採收。如果你找不到Royal Gala, Golden Delicious是另一種不錯的選擇,能找到新鮮採收的最好。)

 第二步:  製作奶酥
100g   黑糖
110g   中筋麵粉
3 大匙  即食燕麥片
1茶匙   泡打粉
100g   無鹽奶油(切小丁狀)

在一碗中先將所有材料,(奶油除外)均勻混和後再加入奶油,然後用指尖搓揉所有材料直到它們成為像麵包屑狀。
(註:  製作奶酥時奶油必須盡可能保持在微冷的狀態,而且要用最短的時間完成,。當奶酥製作完成後,先用保鮮膜覆蓋後放入冰箱冷藏。理由是,當冰冷的奶酥遇上高溫預熱的烤箱,可以製作出更加香脆的成品。)

第三步:  處理綜和莓果
1杯(約125g)  綜和莓果
(我用了一半冷凍野生藍莓,一半冷凍覆盆子)
1大匙     細沙糖
1大匙     中筋麵粉

將綜和莓果、細沙糖、中筋麵粉放入碗中混合均勻。

第四步:  組合
將綜和莓果平均分配到已放置嫩煎蘋果塊的4個中型烤皿(或1大烤皿), 然後在最上層鋪滿約1公分的冰冷奶酥。將他們放到一烤盤上後放進已預熱的烤箱,烤20-25分,等奶酥表面成金黃即可。取出後,待蘋果白蘭地嫩煎蘋果＆綜和莓果奶酥呈溫熱狀態即可享用,也可加上一球香草冰淇淋一起享用。

成品

English Version:

I am always seeking excuses to make crumbles...they are some sort of comfort food (dessert) for me and my hubby.  He has been feeling a bit down lately (work associated) so I thought my special Calvados crumble would do the magic!

Calvados is an apple brandy, one of the local specialities from Normandy (so is apply cider which I have tried braising chicken with, shall share the recipe in another occasion).  I have heard about it for a long time but never had a chance to get on hold of a bottle.  It was until a friend of mine who was going to see her family in Normandy, I asked if she could get a bottle for me, mainly to use for cooking.  She then came back with a bottle of quite precious Calvados as a gift to me.  I was very touched as I was not expecting something like that.  Usually, you would use any ordinary (young) Calvados for cooking, not a bottle of hors d'age (aged) Calvados as it is more for drinking on its own.   This type of Calvados (hors d'age) is also served in a small shot glass and pulled over a scoop of vanilla ice cream or even 'homemade apple sorbet' if you are feeling something more lavish.)  

Back to my crumbles:
Preheat oven to 200C

Step 1:   the apples
4 to 5 apples in season
20g of unsalted butter
1 tbs of brown sugar
a dash of Calvados

Peel the apples and cut into 8 wages and then half again.  Saute apples with butter for 3-4 minutes over medium heat.  Increase the heat to high and add in a dash of Calvados; allow it to cook off the alcohol (about another 5-7 minutes over high heat).  Turn the heat down to medium and sprinkle with sugar, stir and continue cooking for another 5 minutes.  Turn off the heat and allow it to cool off.  Divide the sauteed apples into 4 medium sized ramekins or 1 large baking dish.
*(I am using Royal Gala this time as they are in season and all newly collected; otherwise, golden delicious would be another good choice if they are in season for you.)

Step 2:  crumble mixture
100g of firmly packed brown sugar
110g of plain (all purpose) flour
3 tbs of quick-cooking oats
1 teaspoons of baking power
100g of unsalted butter

In a bowl, mix well all the dry ingredients and add the butter.  Rub in with your fingertips until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.
(*Keep the crumble mixture covered, and store in the fridge until ready to use.)

Step 3:  preparing the berries
1 cup of mixed berries
(*I used half frozen wild blueberries and half frozen raspberries)
1 tbs of caster sugar
1 tbs of plain (all-purpose) flour

Place mixed berries, caster sugar and the flour in a bowl and toss well to combine

Step 4:  putting it together
Top the mixed berries among those 4 ramekins already filled with sauteed apples, and then a generous layer of chilled crumble mixture.  Place 4 ramekins on a baking tray and bake for 20-25 minutes until golden brown.  Serve warm or even top with a scoop of ice cream.