普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

這道鮮蟹櫛瓜義式燉飯是我喜愛的另一版本的燉飯。請儘可能使用新鮮的蟹肉, 現取的蟹肉較甜美, 它的甜美加上彈牙的米粒...米粒就像在齒間跳舞...真的讓人很滿足。在此選用櫛瓜因法國產的鮮蘆筍還沒到產季

*請參考My take on French tourteaux 來烹煮鮮蟹

120公克 現取的蟹肉
2 條小型櫛瓜, 刨絲
半顆洋蔥, 切極碎
1 小根蔥, 切極碎
1 瓣大蒜, 去皮、壓碎
1 小條西芹菜, 切極碎
1.5公升 魚高湯 (也可用濾過的煮蟹高湯替代)
30公克 帕馬森起士, 刨碎
100 ml 料理用白酒
2人份義式燉飯 (arborio米、carnaroli米或vialone米; 約125公克)
20公克無鹽奶油 (10公克用來炒香洋蔥, 10公克用來拌入燉飯中)
少許橄欖油

(* 義式燉飯的基本烹調, 請參考義式燉飯 - butternut squash 胡南瓜版)

1. 將魚高湯煮滾後, 為持小滾狀 (simmer)

2. 使用一微深的平底鍋, 加入10公克無鹽奶油和少許橄欖油來慢炒洋蔥和壓碎的大蒜
(請小火慢炒, 小心別炒焦)

3. 將洋蔥慢炒至透明狀, 加入西芹菜和蔥, 繼續炒3-4分鐘

4. 加入米, 均勻的將米粒裹上鍋裡的油脂

5. 轉大火, 加入料理用白酒, 攪拌 (我使用耐熱攪拌匙, 請避免使用木製攪拌匙, 因它會吸收液體)

6. 待白酒吸收後, 開始加入一匙熱高湯, 攪拌, 攪拌再攪拌 (義式燉飯的絕竅: 經由約15分鐘的攪拌打出米的黏稠性)

7. 轉中小火
8. "一匙熱高湯, 攪拌" - 每加一匙熱高湯前, 須待上一批的液體已被吸收8.5分滿; 重複一匙熱高湯, 攪拌

9. 10分鐘後, 加入刨絲的櫛瓜, 繼續 "一匙熱高湯, 攪拌"的動作

10. 5分鐘後, 試吃幾顆米粒
(義式燉飯應為 al dente - 彈牙; 我的經驗是: 1.  查看米粒中心是否尚有一'小部份', 像芝麻般大小, 呈白色 2. 試吃米粒, 是否'微硬'; 若'微硬'即表示已接近完成, 因我後續還有一步驟, 此步驟會使用餘熱將米粒繼續烹煮。請注意: 試吃過程中, 米粒咬在嘴中若帶粉粒, 表示未熟, 請重複"一匙熱高湯, 攪拌"的動作; 基本上米粒烹煮時間應掌握在15-20分鐘, 加入的高湯一定要是小滾狀 simmer。)
11. 先拌入蟹肉, 然後刨碎帕馬森起士; 熄火, 丟入另10公克無鹽奶油, 加蓋

12. 讓燉飯 '休習' 10分鐘
13. 掀開鍋蓋, 將融化的奶油拌入燉飯中、壓碎的大蒜取出, 趁熱享用

English Version:

Crab and courgette risotto

Here is another risotto I love.  Try using freshly picked crab meat if possible, you will be amazed by its sweetness.  I am using courgettes as asparagus is not yet in season here, otherwise it will also be another good option.

(* Please refer to My take on French tourteaux to cook your fresh crabs.)

120g freshly picked crab meat
2 small sized courgettes, shredded
half of an onion, finely chopped
1 spring onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 small celery stalk, finely chopped
1.5 litre fish stock (or you may sieve the crabs poaching liquid and replace it with the fish stock)
30g freshly grated Parmesan
100 ml cooking white wine
risotto rice for 2 people (about 125g)
10g of unsalted butter plus another 10g
some extra virgin olive oil

(The basic cooking method is similar to my other risotto recipe, butternut squash risotto.)

1.  Bring the stock to the boil and leave it on a low simmer.
2.  Slowly fry the onion and crushed garlic with half butter and half olive oil for a few minutes without colouring.
3.  Add the spring onion and celery and continue cooking for 3-4 minutes.
4.  Add the rice and make sure it is evenly coated with the oil.
5.  Turn the heat up and pour in the white wine and stir at all time.
6.  Once the wine liquid has been absorbed, start adding ladle by ladle of hot stock.   Stir, stir and stir.
7.  Turn the heat down to a low-medium.
8.   Add the stock, ladle by ladle (before adding the next ladle, always make sure each batch has been nicely absorbed) and keep stirring.
9.  After about 10 minutes of cooking, add the shredded courgettes and continue with the stock and stirring action.
10.  After another 5 minutes, check if the rice is cooked.
(The result I am after is al dente not a mashy mixture.  So here is what I normally do - 1.  check if there is still a tiny bit (like a size of sesame seed) of white part in the middle of rice  2.  taste the rice to see if it still has a slight bite; stop at this point as when the risotto is resting, it will continue to cook / heat the rice.)
11. Stir in the crab meat and then Parmesan.  Turn off the heat.  Add the other 10g of butter and put the lit on.
12.  Leave the risotto to rest for 10 minutes.
13.  Stir in the melted butter, discard the crushed garlic and serve immediately.