普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

一位朋友請我去她家吃飯, 那天晚上老公因公出差。朋友準備了鮮魚捲; 她先將魚片蒸熟, 然後切碎、加入一些檸檬汁、crème fraîche法式酸奶調味後用Savory cabbage(自譯 洋白菜)包成一個個小包裹狀, 之後再蒸個30-40分鐘 (因為她沒事先將洋白菜燙過)。她請我幫她做個醬汁來搭配, 我便簡單的做了ㄧ法式酸奶白酒醬。

在享用這道菜的同時, 我向朋友說, 她這道菜給了我一個靈感...我來做一道中式的鮮魚捲, 用料和做法如下:

4 大片鱈魚片(約 650-700公克), 去除魚刺
(* 可使用任何白色的魚片)
1 塊豆腐, 搗碎
1 顆Savory cabbage(自譯 洋白菜)
1 條青蔥
1 小塊薑
1½ 大匙 日式料理用清酒
1½ 大匙 醬油
1½ 茶匙 太白粉 (也可使用一顆蛋白或玉米粉代替)
1 大匙 芝麻油
少許海鹽和白胡椒調味用

醬汁:
3 大匙 黑醋
2 大匙 醬油
1 大匙 芝麻油

1.  取下約10-12片白菜葉, 沖洗乾淨 (Savory cabbage洋白菜較外層的葉片可以拿來墊在蒸籠裡和鱈魚捲一起蒸）
2.  在滾水中加些粗海鹽, 將一片片白菜葉燙約1分鐘, 取出、放於一旁瀝乾備用

3.  用食物調理機將鱈魚片、青蔥和薑打成泥 (也可打粗一點, 帶點口感)

4.  將魚肉泥放入一大碗中, 加入搗碎的豆腐, 混和均勻

5.  加入醬油(或少許海鹽)、料理用清酒、芝麻油和少許白胡椒調味
(魚泥內餡在此階段只先以清淡的方式調味, 因最後會和醬汁一同食用, 若不想製做醬汁請稍微調整調味比例)
6.  加入太白粉, 攪拌均勻
7.  將白菜葉多餘的水分擠出並切除底端帶粗梗的部份
8.  在每一片的白菜葉中間放入魚泥內餡 (葉片邊緣預留約1-2公分)

9.  先將白菜葉朝向底端已切除粗梗的部份捲起, 可藉由一叉子頂住內餡 (方便定型),

然後分別折起兩邊,

最後折下底端並用一綿繩綁緊

10. 捲內餡時, 可以先將一大鍋水煮沸; 將白菜鱈魚捲放入蒸籠以大火蒸15分鐘即可
11. 在白菜鱈魚捲起鍋前的3分鐘, 將黑醋、醬油、芝麻油於一鍋鐘煮滾

12. 將醬汁淋於白菜鱈魚捲上並搭配白飯一同享用

English Version:

Steamed cod rolls  

A friend of mine invited me over for dinner the other night when hubby was away for work.  She prepared some steamed fish mince wrapped in Savory cabbage leaves.  The stuffing was seasoned with crème fraîche and lemon juice.  She mentioned there was no sauce to go with this fish, I then offered to make a quick white wine and crème fraîche sauce to eat with.  It was a light and pleasant dish.  

Her dish inspired me...I told her that I am going to make an Asian version of these fish rolls (parcels).  So here is my take on the steamed cod rolls.  Merci Fanny!

4 piece of cod fillets (around 650-700g), pin-boned
(you may use any sort of white fish)
1 piece of fresh tofu, mashed
1 Savory cabbage
1 spring onion
1 knob ginger
1½ tablespoons Japanese cooking sake
1½ tablespoons soy sauce
1½ teaspoons potato starch (This is used to hold the mixture together.  You may also use an egg white or cornflour.)
1 tablespoon Japanese sesame oil
some freshly ground white pepper and salt to season

For the sauce:

3 tablespoons Chinese black rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Japanese sesame oil

1.  Remove 10-12 Savory cabbage leaves and rinse thoroughly.  
(Instead of using a muslin cloth to line inside of your bamboo steamer, you can use the outer, slightly elder leaves from the cabbage.)  
2.  Blanch each leaf in a saucepan of boiling salted water for 1 minute and then drain in a colander.
3.  Process the cod fillets, spring onion and ginger in a food processor until smooth.  (You may also leave the mixture in small bits to keep some texture.)
4.  Transfer the fish mixture to a big bowl and mix well with the mashed tofu.
5.  Season with 1 tablespoon soy sauce (or some sea salt), sesame oil, Japanese cooking sake and some freshly ground white pepper.
(* The fish mixture is lightly seasoned at this stage as it will be dressed with a sauce when serving.)
6.  Add the potato starch and mix well.  
7.  Squeeze out any excess water from the cabbage leaves and trim off the woody end for easy wrapping.
8.  Place some fish mixture into the centre of each leaf (leaving 1-2 cm at the edge).
9.  Roll it up around the fish mixture (you may use a fork to help shaping) and tighten with a cooking string.
10.  Place a bamboo steamer over a large saucepan of boiling water and steam the fish rolls over high heat for 15 minutes.
11.  3 minutes before the fish is done, mix the vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil in a small saucepan over a medium heat and bring it to the boil.
12.  Pour the sauce over each fish rolls and serve with some steamed rice.