普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

 

Margaret Fulton, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie Beer 是我很崇拜的3位澳洲廚師, 她們是3位了不起的廚師、作家和餐廳經營者。我在約10年前收到 Margaret Fulton 的食譜為聖誕禮物, 在這10間與後, 這本書還是能啟發我。

最近一直在蔬菜店看到新鮮的朝鮮薊...想想離上一次使用新鮮朝鮮薊入菜已有一陣子了, 便來翻一翻書...做了Margaret Fulton的A Passionate Cook書裡的清燉全雞佐朝鮮薊 (Chicken with artichokes)。

為了尊重作者的原著權, 只分享我自己製作這道菜的照片。

製作心得:  請儘可選用放山雞、土雞, 清燉後, 你可以嘗到那濃又鮮美的雞味。

以下為新鮮朝鮮薊的準備方法:

先準備檸檬水, 減低朝鮮薊內部的氧化

切除朝鮮薊的前1/3段, 梗部只留約4-5公分, 用一削刀除去纖維老硬處, 開始撥外皮, 直到見內部的嫩處; 於各切口處塗抹檸檬汁

朝鮮薊切半

(朝鮮薊有不同品種, 法國常見的品種為Violet de Provence, 中小型帶紫羅蘭色, 若無新鮮朝鮮薊, 可用油漬朝鮮薊)

將處理好的朝鮮薊於加粗鹽的滾水煮8-10分鐘(視朝鮮薊大小), 瀝水後備用; 若用油漬朝鮮薊可省去此步驟

雞肉煎至金黃

加入朝鮮薊、番紅花、橄欖、少許雞高湯和調味

加蓋清燉後成品

雞肉取出後, 用法式酸奶 (cream fraiche)製做的醬汁, 另外還加了些綠色蔬菜

和 tagliatelle 義式寬麵和法式酸奶 (cream fraiche)製做的醬汁一起享用

我用了剩下的雞骨架做了簡單的雞高湯, 也在此道菜中加入少許 (作者的原著並無使用少許雞高湯)

做完雞高湯再將雞骨架上剩餘的雞肉用手撕下, 先淋上少許雞高湯 (保持溼潤), 再拌上用有機芝麻糊、醬油、少許雞高湯調配的醬汁, 最後灑上蔥花即成了一道充滿雞味的雞絲沙拉。

佐餐酒(清燉全雞佐朝鮮薊)為 07年的 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Domaine Saint Saturnin de Vergy), 這支酒一入口, 先是紅苺果味, 含於口中片刻後, 黑苺味慢慢引出, 它帶有該有的果酸但適中, 是支典型的年輕黑皮諾(pinot noir - 是我個人偏愛的紅酒種類), 平衡適中, 完全不會搶了雞的鮮。

English Version:

Margaret Fulton, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie Beer are three of my admired cooks.  They are three amazing Australian female cooks (food writers and restaurateurs as well).  I received Margaret Fulton's cookbook as a gift nearly 10 year ago and this book still inspires me.  

I have been seeing fresh artichokes in markets and it has been a long while since I last cooked fresh artichokes, so here is what I found in Margaret's book, " Chicken with Artichokes."  

To respect her work, I am only sharing photos taken while making this dish.  Try getting a decent chicken (for example a free-range chicken), and you will see how amazing it tastes.

I used the carcass to make a simple chicken stock and also throw some in to this dish (not as per Margaret's original recipe).  

I  also hand shredded some left over chicken pieces from the carcass (collected after making the stock) and made a small chicken salad with a very flavorsome sauce.  The sauce was made with organic sesame puree (or Tahini paste), soy sauce, and some chicken stock and topped with some finely chopped spring onion...nothing was wasted!
(A tiny trick:  add 1 or 2 teaspoons of chicken stock to the shredded chicken to keep it moist.)

I had 07's Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (from Domaine Saint Saturnin de Vergy) to drink with "chicken with artichoke."  This Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune surprised me as it is so fruity, first note of red berries and evolves to blackcurrant; enough acidity but fresh in mouth, a very classic young pinot noir, also my favorite red choice.  It has just enough weight to accompany this light chicken dish.