普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

之前在寫紅酒鴨肉醬時有提到另一版本的ragù, 就是使用小牛肉與白酒。這是我非常喜歡的ragù, 第一次做這道白酒小牛肉醬是在澳洲, 那時常去一家品質還不錯的肉店買肉, 臨出店門前, 看上了塊還帶著肩骨的小牛肩, 在無法抗拒的情況下, 將那塊小牛肩帶回家了。小牛肉是我很喜愛的肉類, 比起牛肉的豪邁, 小牛肉多了分甜美與細緻。而這道白酒小牛肉醬所使用的蔬菜與白酒更是將小牛肉原有的甜美帶上了另一層次。

以下是所需的食材：

800公克  小牛肉塊 (儘可能取自肩膀部為)
375ml  乾白酒 (我用了09年的有機 Bordeaux blanc, 也可使用 Chardonnay)
2 條小型紅蘿蔔, 去皮、切丁
2 小條西芹菜, 切丁
1 顆洋蔥, 切丁
2 瓣大蒜, 去皮
1 小枝迷迭香
2 片新鮮月桂葉 (或1片乾燥月桂葉 )
1 罐義式蕃茄 (我偏愛小蕃茄品種)
1 匙fond de veau (小牛高湯粉)

1.  將琺瑯鑄鐵鍋用中火加熱, 將小牛肉塊分批煎至兩面金黃(我使用了一半橄欖油一半奶油來煎), 取出放於一盤中

2.  琺瑯鑄鐵鍋中只留下少量的油, 先將洋蔥炒軟, 加入紅蘿蔔、西芹菜和大蒜再繼續慢炒8-10分鐘

3.  加入小牛肉塊, 轉大火, 倒入白酒煮沸數分鐘讓酒精揮發

4.  加入義式蕃茄罐頭、 小牛高湯粉、月桂葉和迷迭香, 攪拌均勻

5.  待醬汁煮沸後加蓋, 轉小火慢燉 2-2.5小時, 直到小牛肉塊一碰就能輕易的分散 (也可將琺瑯鑄鐵鍋放入已預熱180C的烤箱來烹煮)

6.  請小心的將小牛肉塊取出, 然後用叉子和湯匙將肉剝撕, 最後在將小牛肉絲加回醬汁攪拌均勻即可

我將白酒小牛肉醬加入自製的義式馬鈴薯餃 (gnocchi)配上刨碎帕馬森起士一起享用; 此醬配上義式寬麵也很適和。白酒小牛肉醬2次加熱後, 味道更濃欲。

我會在下一篇來介紹義式馬鈴薯餃 (gnocchi)的做法

English Version:

My Veal Ragù

I mentioned earlier in my article of duck ragù that another version of ragù I love making is using veal with white wine.  The first time I made this ragù was in Australia where I bought a piece of veal shoulder from a pretty decent butcher.  I love the sweetness and delicate taste from veal and when made into ragù, I personally find it more tasty as the wine and vegetables help to maximise its sweetness.

Here is the recipe for my veal ragù:

800g of veal cuts (preferably from the shoulder)

375 ml of dry white wine (I used 09's organic Bordeaux blanc; Chardonnay is another good choice.)

2 small carrots, finely chopped


2 small celery stalks, finely chopped


1 onion, finely chopped


2 garlic cloves, peeled


1 small rosemary sprigs

2 fresh bay leaves (or 1 dried bay leaf)


1 tin of Italian cherry tomatoes (400g)


1 tablespoons of fond de veau (veal stock in powder)

1.  Heat a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and brown the veal (with half olive oil and half butter) in batches.
2.  In the same saucepan, slowly fry the onion until soft and then add the carrots, celery and garlic.  Saute the vegetables for 8-10 minutes.
3.  Add the veal back in and increase the heat to high.  Pour over the wine and let it boil for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol.
4.  Add the tomatoes, fond de veau, bay leaves and rosemary and stir to mix well.  
5.  Bring the sauce to the boil and then cover the saucepan with its lid.  Turn the heat down to a low and braise slowly for 2 to 2.5 hours or until the meat breaks apart easily.  (You may also do this with a preheated oven of 180C.)
6.  Remove the veal from the saucepan carefully.  Use a fork and spoon to fork through the veal and add the shredded veal back into the saucepan.  Mix well with the sauce.

I served this ragù with homemade gnocchi and some grated Parmesan.  It is also great with some tagliatelle or pappardelle.  This ragù becomes more flavorsome when reheated the next day.

Shall share the recipe for my gnocchi next.