普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

我並不特別愛吃羊肉...但幾星期前, 我在常去的肉店看到了美美的小羊膝(法式切法), 在看到了這些小羊膝的同時, 我便回想起曾經在雪梨的一家希臘式餐廳所吃過的美味燉羊膝, 那家餐廳的燉羊膝是混合了一些豆子和甜菜葉(chard)去清燉, 多了分鮮甜, 肉質更是沒話說...於是我便決定也自己來做一道燉羊膝, 普羅旺斯 style, 因為使用了普羅旺斯香草 (herbs de Provence) 以及搭配了 Camargue 米 (暫譯卡麥咯), 所以帶較重的普羅旺斯味!
(* Riz de Camargue - 暫譯卡麥咯米, 是種蠻特別的米, 此米栽種在南法的卡麥咯濕地, 離我們住的地方約1小時車程; 南法的卡麥咯濕地也是一受保護的自然公園, 此米呈紅黑色, 米粒中短型, 烹煮時間較長, 在煮的時候, 稍帶堅果味及嚼勁, 是我個人很喜歡的一種米。南法的卡麥咯還有2個名產:  卡麥咯的鹽之花和鬥牛; 有機會來南法玩時, 可以到卡麥咯走走。)

以下是我的普羅旺斯 style燉羊膝 :

3-4 塊羊膝 (法式切法)
375ml  乾白酒
2  條小型紅蘿蔔, 去皮、切丁
2  小條西芹菜, 切丁
半顆洋蔥, 切丁
1-2 個法式紅蔥頭, 切薄片
5 瓣大蒜, 去皮
1 罐義式蕃茄 400克 (我偏愛小蕃茄品種)
1 匙蕃茄糊1 匙fond de veau (小牛高湯粉)

少許鹽和胡椒
普羅旺斯香草 (herbs de Provence - 內含百里香、迷迭香、蘿勒，馬鬱草和 '香薄荷'- savory; 是一種帶有薄荷味, 但非薄荷 mint, 是種和百里香、迷迭香同科的香草植物。)

1.  使用適量的普羅旺斯香草、鹽和胡椒將羊膝調味

 
2.  琺瑯鑄鐵鍋用中火加熱, 用一點橄欖油將羊膝分批煎至金黃, 取出放於一盤中

3.  琺瑯鑄鐵鍋中只留下少量的油來慢炒洋蔥、法式紅蔥頭、紅蘿蔔、西芹菜和大蒜 8-10分鐘

4.  加入羊膝, 轉大火, 倒入白酒煮沸數分鐘讓酒精揮發

5.  加入義式蕃茄罐頭和小牛高湯粉, 攪拌均勻

6.  待醬汁煮沸後加蓋, 轉小火慢燉 2-2.5小時, 直到羊膝一碰就能輕易的分散 (也可將琺瑯鑄鐵鍋放入已預熱180C的烤箱來烹煮)
7.  離熄火30分鐘前, 加入1 匙蕃茄糊來稍微濃縮一些醬汁即可

這道普羅旺斯 style燉羊膝, 我搭配了卡麥咯米和奶油炒波菜一同享用; polenta (暫譯玉米粥) 也和此燉羊膝蠻搭的...但卡麥咯米更具普羅旺斯味!

English Version:

Provençal style lamb shanks

I am not a big fan of any lamb dish...but a few weeks ago, I saw some real nice lamb shanks (French trimmed) in store...it reminds me of the real nice lamb shanks I had once at a Greek restaurant in Sydney.  The lamb shanks were braised slowly with some beans and chards...so tender and juicy.  So I decided to make mine a bit more Provençal...to braise these beautiful lamb shanks with some herbs of Provence and serve on a bed of Camargue rice.
(* Riz de Camargue is a very particular type of red / black rice cultivated in the wetlands of Camargue in the south of France, about 1 hour drive from where we live.  This is a short grained variety of rice and has a very nice nutty taste and chewy texture.  I personally like this rice a lot.  Camargue is also famous for its fleur de sel and taureau / bulls.  It is a very nice little town to visit.)

Here are the ingredients for my Provençal style lamb shanks:

3-4 lamb shanks (French trimmed)
375ml of dry white wine
2 small carrots, finely chopped
2 small celery stalks, finely chopped
half of 1 onion, finely chopped
1-2 French shallots, finely sliced
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tin of Italian cherry tomatoes (400g)
1 tablespoon of tomato paste
1 tablespoon of fond de veau (veal stock in powder)
Herbs de Provence (mixture of thyme, rosemary, basil, marjoram and savory)
salt and pepper to season

1.  Season the lamb shanks with salt, pepper and herbs de Provence.
2.  Heat a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and brown the lamb shanks in batches with some olive oil.  Place the browned meat in a plate.  
3.  Slowly fry the onion, French shallots, garlic, carrots and celery in the same saucepan for 8-10 minutes.
4.  Add the shanks back in and increase the heat to high.  Pull in the wine and let it boil for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol.
5.  Add the tomato and fond de veau, stir to mix well.  
6.  Bring the sauce to the boil and then cover the saucepan with its lid.  Turn the heat down to a low and braise slowly for 2 to 2.5 hours or until the meat falls of the bone easily.
7.  Add the tomato paste to the sauce 30 minutes before turning off the heat.

As mentioned above, I had some Camargue rice, and buttered spinach to accompany my Provençal style lamb shanks.  Polenta would be another good accompaniment for this dish, but would be less Provençal!