普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

記得幾年前第一次試過Bill Granger為澳洲版的 Delicious ABC 雜誌刊登的草莓酸奶瑪芬, 我立刻愛上那甜中帶點微酸的滋味! 因為添加了酸奶, 瑪芬的質地更綿, 輕巧的小瑪芬充當午茶小點心, 滿足了味蕾卻不佔胃。

自從居住在法國後, 漸漸的喜愛上*鮮乳酪 (fromage frais / blanc), 因為我認為鮮乳酪比起酸奶(sour cream)或希臘式原味優格 (Greek style yogurt) 更輕盈, 而純鮮乳酪可以是酸奶或希臘式原味優格(特別是運用在甜點中)一個更健康的選擇。

* fromage frais (as known as fromage blanc) 照字面翻譯為 fresh cheese - 鮮乳酪, 與起士的製做類似, 差別在於製做 fromage frais / blanc 時會在牛奶中加入凝乳酶 (rennet) 和發酵培養物, 但會不時的攪動不讓 fromage frais / blanc 凝固; 給與 fromage frais 和 fromage blanc (white cheese) 像原味優格(帶點微酸味)般的質地。 純 fromage frais / blanc 是幾乎無脂的, 但也有為了增添風味而加入鮮奶油的。

過去的幾年中, 我從澳洲搬到倫敦, 倫敦搬到法國; 原本收藏上百本的美食雜誌, 一部份送人, 一部份應該還坐在朋友家的倉庫。因為原始食譜已不在, 加上不同的國家、新發現、新體驗、不同的食材 = '新'味道。

可做12個小瑪芬

110 公克 無鹽奶油, 室溫放置稍軟
160 公克 特細砂糖
2 顆 有機蛋
170 公克 鮮乳酪 (fromage frais, 含脂量0%)
275 公克 有機中筋麵粉
1大匙 泡打粉
½ 茶匙 細海鹽
120 公克 野生藍莓

烤箱預熱至180C
* 雙次過篩 (見步驟1和5) 是製做出質地輕盈瑪芬的訣竅; 此動做也是為了避免過度的攪拌, 過度攪拌會將麵粉內的筋性帶出, 做出來的瑪芬會乾硬。

1.  將麵粉、泡打粉與細海鹽過篩於一大碗中 (此3種組合其實是自製 ' 自發麵粉 self-raising flour')

2.  將奶油與砂糖打發(意旨: 將空氣打入), 至淡乳黃狀

3.  先加入1顆蛋, 待攪拌均勻後再加入另1顆蛋

4.  先拌入一半的鮮乳酪, 拌勻後再加入另一半、混合均勻

5.  將步驟1的混合物再次過篩於蛋糊中; 快速並輕巧的將乾溼材料混合

6.  快速並輕巧的拌入野生藍莓, 勿過度攪拌

7.  使用一大湯匙將餡料填進已鋪上瑪芬紙杯的瑪芬模, 進烤箱烤25-30分鐘, 至金黃即可

English Version:

Wild blueberry & fromage frais muffins

A few years ago, I remember making my first strawberry and sour cream muffins from Bill Granger's recipe for Delicious ABC magazine (Australian version).  I immediately fell for these little treats....they were moist, tangy and just enough for a little tea break.  The sour cream addition changed the basic muffin texture.

Since living in France, I gradually fall in love with fromage frais / fromage blanc.  I find it a much healthier and lighter substitute for recipes call for sour cream or Greek style yogurt.

Over the years, I have moved from Australia to London, and London to France.  The original recipe is perhaps still sitting somewhere along my collections of food magazines.  As a result, I've come up this new muffin recipe by using fromage frais / blanc.  Thanks to my French living experience, a new ingredient and a new taste.

Makes 12 small muffins

110g unsalted butter, softened
160g fine caster sugar
2 organic eggs
170g organic fromage frais ( 0% fat)
275g organic plain flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
120g wild blueberries


Preheat the oven to 180C
* Double sifting (see step 1 and 5) the flour is the key to a light and fluffy muffins.   This also helps to avoid over mixing the batter which is likely to result dry and tough muffins.

1.  Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl.
2.  Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
3.  Add the eggs, one at a time and mix well after each addition.
4.  Stir in half of the fromage frais, mix well before adding the remaining fromage frais.  Mix until well incorporated.
5.  Sift in the flour mixture from step 1 and mix very gently; the idea is to gently combine the dry ingredients to the wet ones without overworking the gluten.
6.  Fold in gently the blueberries without over mixing nor stirring.
7.  Spoon into the muffin cases (lined with muffin cups) and bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden.