普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

我的普羅旺斯海鮮湯非馬賽魚湯。

最傳統的馬賽魚湯一定使用了地中海的海魚; 'rascasse' (見圖中左下角, 鮋科是一地中海礁魚), congre(深海鰻), grondin (圖中左下rascasse上面, 角魚科也是一地中海礁魚), daurade (圖上與中, 鯛魚科), lotte (angler 鮟鱇魚), merlan (圖底, 牙鱈)等。除了使用最新鮮的地中海的海魚, 大蒜、白酒、橄欖油和優質番紅花另外搭配'rouille*'才是馬賽魚湯。
Rouille - 是一種以鮟鱇魚魚肝、馬鈴薯、蕃茄、大蒜和橄欖油製做的醬; 是搭配馬賽魚湯或其它魚湯最典型的一醬。

 

雖然我們住在馬賽地區但我們不愛傳統的馬賽魚湯, 老公甚至討厭馬賽魚湯或魚湯soupe de poissons, 直到我堅持他一定要試過我的普羅旺斯海鮮湯才可以否決所有的魚湯。

先來分享第一部, 魚高湯的製做:

可做1公升

800 公克 新鮮的地中海的礁魚, 清理過*
1 顆 洋蔥, 去皮對切
1 條 西洋芹, 保留少許枝葉
1 小把義式扁葉香芹, 保留較嫩的根

*  因為我不是做馬賽魚湯, 所以不保留魚肝

將所有材料放入一琺瑯鑄鐵鍋, 加入足夠蓋滿食材的水量, 以中小火煮至微滾(過大的火會將魚煮爛)。

微滾後開始將表面浮泡濾掉, 鑄鐵鍋加蓋再以小火煮25分鐘, 熄火(先別掀蓋)放置30分鐘, 有助於味道融合並將蛋白雜質沈澱至鍋底。

先將香芹蔬菜濾出(可丟棄), 再小心的將魚一條條撈出放於一深盤; 將魚肉取下放於一盤中備用(魚骨可丟棄)。

將高湯調味並過濾; 最後高湯成品量為1公升:  800 ml 用於下一部我的普羅旺斯海鮮湯, 剩下的分別冷藏日後可使用。

My Provençal fish stew - Part 1  Fish stock

The most traditional Bouillabaisse de Marseille must consist fishes from the Mediterranean Sea, such as 'rascasse' (a bony rockfish; as shown in photos - the one in the left corner), congre, grondin (Triglidae family; the one in the left corner on top of rascasse), daurade (snapper family; top and centre in photos), lotte (angler), merlan (commonly known as whiting; bottom right in photos) and etc.

Apart from the freshest Mediterranean fishes, garlic, white wine, olive oil and good quality of saffron are all essential to the Bouillabaisse de Marseille.  It is then served with 'rouille'.

Rouille is a sauce made of lotte's (anglerfish) liver, potato, tomato, garlic and olive oil.  It is typically served with bouillabaisse or fish soup in this region. 

We may be living in the bouillabaisse region but hubby and I are not so big on the traditional bouillabaisse.  In fact, he dislikes bouillabaisse or fish soup until I insisted him trying my style of fish stew.


Here is the part 1 of my Provençal fish stew, fish stock making:

Makes 1 litre
800 g freshest Mediterranean reef fishes, cleaned*
1 onion, peeled and halved
1 celery stalk and some leaves reserved
a small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, stalks reserved

* As this fish stock is for my Provençal fish stew, I've cleaned and removed fish livers.  If you would like to make the true bouillabaisse, you may want to reserve fish livers.

Put all ingredients into a heavy-based saucepan with just enough water to cover.  Bring slowly to a simmer and skim the froth from the surface.  Cover and simmer gently for 25 minutes.  Leave it to sit and infuse for another 30 minutes.  

Remove and discard the celery, onion and parsley.  Carefully transfer the fishes to a large baking dish.  Flake the fish and keep in a dish until ready to use.

Season the stock and strain through a fine sieve.  You will need 800 ml for the fish stew; store the rest in a freezer container.