普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

以白蘇維濃Limousin 蘋果慢烤豬肉是我最喜歡的豬肉料理方式之一，白蘇維濃與蘋果的酸甜平衡，將此慢烤豬菲力帶上另一層次。

* Pomme du Limousin 利穆贊蘋果是法國唯一有受到AOP保護的一種蘋果。所以從它的種植方式、種植區域、範圍、密度、成品的size 、採收和到包裝都有著嚴格的規定, 以確保每一顆新鮮的利穆贊蘋果達到AOP的標準。此蘋果的酸甜度恰當, 種類產於golden delicious種, 但它的蘋果肉卻不帶粉粉的口感, 我個人比較傾好利穆贊的蘋果而非Granny Smith來入菜另外一個理由就是基於 'terrior ' 的觀念。
(若利穆贊蘋果不易取得，請以Royal Gala或Golden Delicious種蘋果代替。)

1.5 公斤 豬菲力條
3 顆 利穆贊蘋果, 去皮、去核並每顆切成8瓣
4-5 瓣 大蒜，去皮拍碎
2 顆 中小型洋蔥，去皮分別切4瓣
600-650 ml 白蘇維濃
120ml crème fraîche 法式酸奶*

*(Crème fraîche 之前有提過是我冰箱內不可或缺的食材之一； 法國境內的crème fraîche 多以生乳發酵製作而成，帶微酸，所以我將它譯為法式酸奶；無法取得真正的crème fraîche 可以sour cream 代替。這2者最大的差異在於crème fraîche 是以生乳，也就是未經高溫殺菌的牛乳來發酵，所以除了保存了乳香，在經過加熱後不易乳脂分裂，也就是説做出來的醬汁不會有小顆粒的乳脂球。 但我想要特別說一下，目前只有法國勻許以生乳製作乳製品，所以即便是在法國境外買的法國品牌乳製品都是使用殺菌過的牛乳製成(完全是依照各國法令)；另外，要是有機會取得crème fraîche, 可以試試我的最愛, 諾曼地的 Isigny-sur-Mer 出產的crème fraîche, 是目前法國唯一有AOC 的。

烤箱預熱190C

1.  將琺瑯鑄鐵鍋以中火加熱
2.  待鍋熱後加入1匙橄欖油並用大火鎖住 (sear) 肉的每一面
(Sear: 是指用大火快速的將肉的表面藉焦化封鎖住內部的肉汁)

3.  將豬菲力先移至另一空盤並轉小火
4.  於同一鍋內，慢炒大蒜、洋蔥和蘋果3-4分鐘

5.  轉大火，倒入白蘇維濃

6.  使用木匙將鍋底焦化物刮一刮（儘量刮乾淨，這些將為醬汁加味），將白酒煮沸3-4分鐘

7.  熄火。 將豬菲力條放回並加蓋(汁液須逹肉條的3／4）

8.  放入烤箱烤40分鐘
9.  40分後，烤箱熄火，先別開，鑄鐵鍋繼續放烤箱內30分鐘
10.  移出烤箱，移除鍋蓋並將內側焦化刮一刮加入湯汁中

11.  並將豬菲力移置另一温烤盤以鋁箔紙緊包住，放入已熄火但微温的烤箱(此目的只是為了在製作醬汁時，豬菲力保溫，匆過度加熱導致肉質過乾，因菲力部位容易煮過熟  )
12.  將鍋內剩餘的*倒於另一較小的醬鍋，以中火收掉1／3的汁液 （*可以先預留數瓣蘋果，呈盤時一起搭配享用）

13.  將醬鍋離火並將醬汁打成泥

14.  再次以中火加熱至滾，拌入法式酸奶，熄火

15.  將豬菲力切片，淋上醬汁佐香煎小米糕和球芽甘藍

(香煎小米糕和球芽甘藍食譜會繼續補上）

Pork filet roasted with Sauvignon blanc, Limousin's apples and onions

This is my favorite way of roasting pork.  The well-balanced acidity and sweetness from Sauvignon blanc and pomme du Limousin* add a nice touch to the roast.

*(Pomme du Limousin is the the only apple in France that received an AOP.  There are of course lots regulations on the growing methods, growing zone and density, minimum size, harvesting and packing to ensure the apples qualify an AOP.  I love its clean crisp and juicy taste.  The acidity of this apple is very well balanced.  This apple is produced from the ' golden delicious' variety but the flesh is non-floury.  Personally I prefer using fresh Pomme du Limousin than Granny Smith and another reason is due to the terrior concept.)

Please use Royal Gala or Golden Delicious apples if you can't get Pomme du Limousin.

1.5 kg pork fillet
3  pomme du Limousin (Limousin's apples), peeled, cored and cut into eighths
4-5 garlic cloves, skin removed and crushed
2 small onions, peeled and quartered
600-650 ml Sauvignon blanc
120ml crème fraîche

Preheat the oven to 190C

1.  Heat a cast-iron saucepan over medium heat.
2.  When the pan is hot, add a tablespoon of olive oil and sear the pork on all sides.
3.  Transfer the pork to a plate and reduce the heat to low.
4.  Briefly fry the garlic, onions and apples (about 3-4 minutes) in the same saucepan.
5.  Increase the heat to high and pour in the Sauvignon blanc.  
6.  Scrape up the sediments (this will be the base of our sauce) and boil the wine for 3-4 minutes.
7.  Turn off the heat.  Put the pork back in the saucepan and cover with a lid.  (The liquid in the saucepan should come 3/4 of the way up the side of the meat.)
8.  Place the cast-iron saucepan (lid on) into the oven and roast for 40 minutes.
9.  40 minutes later, turn off the oven and leave the saucepan in for another 30 minutes.  
10.   Remove the saucepan from oven, remove the lid and use a spatula to scrape off the caramelised sediments on the side of saucepan.
11.  Carefully transfer the pork fillet to a warm baking dish and cover tightly with a foil.  Keep warm.
12.  Transfer the rest* to another smaller saucepan.  Reduce the sauce over a medium heat, until it is reduced by 1/3.
(* You may also reserve 2-3 apple wedges to serve with.)
13.  Remove from heat; puree the sauce with a hand blender.
14.  Put the sauce back onto a medium heat and bring to boil, stir in the crème fraîche.
15.  Slice the pork and spoon over the sauce, serve with pan-fried polenta and sauteed Brussels sprouts.*
(* Pan-fried polenta and sauteed Brussels sprouts recipes to come.)