普羅旺斯的天空下 Living in Provence

搬到南法生活已有一段時間了



一開始還幻想著日後可以到馬賽或任一近海的城市大買剛下船的新鮮海產, 但卻事與願違
 (註:因之前在澳洲生活時,總是可以在市集或海產專賣店裡買到極新鮮且價格合理的海產。
來到法國後才發現這裡的魚價不斐,又或者我該說在一般大型超市裡買到的海鮮,它們的鮮度皆無法和我在澳洲的經驗相比）



前陣子收到一超市的促銷DM, 看到正在促銷活螃蟹(French Tourteaux), 本想帶著去看熱鬧的心態
。

到了超市後,老公先幫我取號並排隊等候, 我則先跑去瞧瞧那些活 tourteaux。等魚販服務人員叫到我們的號碼時,我挑東撿西的選了2隻活螃蟹, 秤重評價後才發現比我想像中要來得便宜（ 2公斤多才8歐元多加上折扣後約4歐元多)。
這時突然聽到在我身旁的一家人正詢問魚販服務人員一整箱的重量（約10公斤多 = 40歐元多 /折扣後約20歐元多 ), 之後這一家人便拿了一整箱
! 這時的我又心動了, 於是趕緊回頭叫老公去取號再1次排隊, 我則利用此時快快採購其餘食材。等我跑回去時還差2號才叫到我們,
 於是我先再去看看那些活 tourteaux, 這時箱子裡只剩3隻, 等到我們時就只剩2隻了, 所以便將最後這2隻一起帶走。


一路上不斷和老公高興的談論我們的小小戰績, 同時心想著今晚要大口吃鮮蟹大口配上我的Chablis Premier Cru



回到家後我先將2隻活螃蟹裝袋冷凍保藏(已打算要拿來做我的馬賽海鮮湯或義式燉飯)


今晚享用的那2隻也先進冷凍庫慢慢進入冬眠狀態, 約30分鐘（註:此步驟一來方便稍後的料理,一來較不殘忍...不至於聽到它們在鍋裡拼命爬…）



因這2隻活螃蟹新鮮所以只想用最簡單的料理方式來品嘗他們的鮮



1 琺瑯鑄鐵鍋 （因鑄鐵鍋具絕佳保溫效果）

250 ml 清水


150 料理用白酒 (盡可選dry white wine）


1 中小型洋蔥, 切半


1 小把細香蔥 (chives)


1 顆黃檸檬, 切半


先將清水, 料理用白酒, 切半洋蔥, 1小把細香蔥 (chives) 加入琺瑯鑄鐵鍋加熱煮沸。

待此高湯煮沸後, 將冬眠狀態的2隻活螃蟹下鍋,丟入切半黃檸檬*, 轉中小火, 加蓋烹煮25-30分鐘, 25-30分鐘後熄火**


(*註：若太早加入黃檸檬會產生苦澀味; **熄火後,鍋蓋千萬別掀開,因為要運用鑄鐵鍋的具絕佳保溫效果繼續燜調25分鐘)

可以利用此時製細香蔥＆蒜味美乃茲：

(成品量：300ml)


2顆有機蛋黃


1茶匙 白酒醋


1茶匙 Dijon介末


1小搓鹽之花調味


1瓣大蒜 壓碎


1匙 碎細香蔥(chives)



將有機蛋黃放入一個中型碗, 加入1茶匙白酒醋、1茶匙 Dijon介末、壓碎的大蒜。
使用300ml 堅果類油(例：花生油, 核桃油或任何輕的調味的油如向日葵油、葡萄菜籽油和輕橄欖油light olive oil)非常、非常慢地慢慢加入油, 用力攪拌直到混合。 在加入更多油之前, 記得先確認前一批油已被吸收並調配均勻。 重複此步驟 - 非常、非常慢地加入油, 用力攪拌，直到混合。 當所有油被均勻混合时, 加入切碎細香蔥(chives), 加入1小搓鹽之花調味。
在食用之前取出大蒜。

此美乃茲可存放在一個密封的容器中並放入冰箱內一個星期。



25-30分鐘後, 打開蓋子並將螃蟹取出, 可以取下它們的腿、蟹螯和取出肺(及任何不能吃的部位)。 將放所有取出的腿、蟹螯、可食用部位擺盤, 加上自製香蔥＆蒜味美乃茲即可食用
（註：如照片顯示,我們還加了鮮蝦,加上橄欖油輕炒有幾櫛瓜和五穀雜糧麵包)


我選用Chablis Premier Cru 2006 為佐餐酒

English Version:

It has been quite some time since living in the south of France.  When we were still in the south west, I was naive enough to think that we would be able to get super fresh seafood once in the real south, especially we are not far from Marseille and the sea.  I even dreamed about going to pick my seafood direct from the incoming fishing boats!
(Note:  It was not hard finding good produces with reasonable prices during my time living in Australia.  However, knowing living in France can be real expensive, I still can't get over with the quality of some produces here and the prices you have to pay for.)

We received some promotes from our local hypermarkets a while ago, I saw they were promoting live crabs (French tourteaux) and I thought we could go and check it out.  When we arrived at the hypermarket, I asked my hubby to get a ticket and start waiting while I go on checking the quality of these 'live crabs'.  When our number was called, I instructed the vendor to select 2 of my preferred crabs; he then weighted these 2 crabs and labelled them with the price.  I was so surprised to see the cost of these 2 crabs (they weighted a bit over 2 kg for 8 euros something and 4 euros after the discount). 

Just when I was amazed by the cost of these two crabs, I overheard a family next to me asking the vendor for the weight and cost of an entire box.  He then weighted the box and reported 10kg for about 80 euros which would be 40 something euros after discount!  So they bought the box and I was tempted...again.  I asked my husband to take another number and wait again while I continued the rest of our grocery shopping.  I hurried back to the seafood stand and quickly checked how many tourteaux left...There were 3 left in the box and still 2 people ahead of us!  When it was our turn, we took the remaining two tourteaux and satisfied!

When we got into our car, we were both happy about the purchase.  I was already thinking a feast of crabs and seafood and a big glass of Chablis Premier Cru 06!  It is not hard to enjoy life!

When we arrived home, I first put two live crabs into a freezer bag for later use (e.g. my version of bouillabaisse, or risotto) and the other two into freezer (to sleep) for 30 minutes before cooking.

I don't really want to do much to these crabs since they are so fresh.  I have chosen to poach them in some white wine and aromatic herbs and serve with a homemade garlic & chives mayo.

You will need:
1 cast-iron pot

250ml water
150 cooking white wine (or any dry white)
1 small / medium sized onion cut into half
1 small bunch of chives
1 lemon cut into half

In the cast-iron pot, put in the onion, chives, water and white wine and bring it to boil.  Once the stock is boiled, add in the crabs, lemon and close the lid and continue cooking in a medium heat for 25-30 minutes.  Turn of the heat, and leave the lid tight on for another 25 minutes.  (I am using the residual heat captured in the cast-iron pot to continue cooking these crabs gently so the crabs would remain juicy.)

For the garlic and chives mayonnaise:
(makes 300ml)

2 organic egg yolks
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
and a pinch of fleur de sel for seasoning
1 clove of crashed garlic
1 tablespoon of finely chopped chives

Add the egg yolks, white wine vinegar, dijon mustard, salt and crashed garlic into a mixing bowl.  Use 300ml groundnut oil, (or any light flavored oil such as sunflower oil, grape seed oil and light olive oil) very slowly adding in the oil and whisk hard until well mixed.  

Repeat again and again, and always make sure the previous amount is well mixed (absorbed) before adding more.  When all the oil is mixed in, add in finely chopped chives.  Discard the garlic before serving.  This can be kept, stored in a sealed container for a week in the fridge.

You may now take the crabs out onto a serving dish and allow it to cool before handling.  When it is cool enough to handle, start by removing their claws and tiny legs pieces by pieces and put these into a service dish.  You want to discard the guts and any uneatable bits and serve with the homemade mayo.

As shown in pictures, we also had some poached prawns, lightly sauteed organic courgettes and bread with mixed grains.

I had Chablis Premier Cru 2006 to accompany my feast!